The main types of gold chains are cable, box, wheat, rope, franco, curb, Miami Cuban, Figaro, mariner, herringbone, snake, paperclip and bead chains. What separates them is the shape of the link, and that shape decides how a chain catches light, how it lies, and whether it can carry a pendant. This guide sorts every type we stock by its measured width and the lengths it comes in, from the 54 chains in our gold chains collection, so the choice rests on real pieces rather than on names alone.
The Main Types of Gold Chain
A chain type is a link pattern. The same pattern can be made fine or heavy, so the type tells you the character of a chain and the width tells you its presence. The table lists each type in our range, what its links look like, and the widths and lengths we carry it in.
| Chain type | What the links look like | Widths we stock | Lengths we stock | Example |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cable | Round or oval links joined one through the next, the plainest chain there is | 1.5 mm to 2.6 mm | 16, 18, 20, 24 in | See one |
| Box | Square links set flat, so the chain reads as a line of small boxes | 1.4 mm | 16, 18, 20, 22, 24 in | See one |
| Wheat | Four strands of oval links twisted together, close and rounded | 1.5 mm | 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 30 in | See one |
| Singapore | A fine twisted curb that catches light as it moves | 1.8 mm | 16, 18, 20 in | See one |
| Snake and omega | Smooth, close-fitted plates; the chain lies flat or round with no visible links | 2.6 mm to 3 mm | 16, 18, 20 in | See one |
| Herringbone | Flat, slanted links laid in rows, so the chain lies like a ribbon | 2.8 mm to 6 mm | 16, 18, 20, 24 in | See one |
| Franco | V-shaped links packed tightly into a square profile | 1 mm to 4.1 mm | 18, 20, 22, 24 in | See one |
| Rope | Links twisted into a spiral that reads as a single rope of gold | 3 mm to 5 mm | 18, 20, 22, 24, 30 in | See one |
| Curb | Uniform links twisted so they lie flat against each other | 4.7 mm | 18, 20, 22, 24, 30 in | See one |
| Miami Cuban | Thick, rounded curb links set close, the heaviest everyday look | 2.6 mm to 8 mm | 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26 in | See one |
| Figaro | Short round links broken by one long link at an even rhythm | 3 mm to 6.6 mm | 16, 18, 20, 22, 24 in | See one |
| Mariner | Oval links with a bar across each, the anchor-chain look | 4.7 mm to 13.8 mm | 18, 18.5, 20, 24 in | See one |
| Paperclip | Long, flat rectangular links with open centers | 1.5 mm to 9.8 mm | 16, 18, 20, 24, 26, 38 in | See one |
| Bead | Polished gold beads strung on a fine line | 2.3 mm to 4 mm | 18 in | See one |
Two of these families carry most of the demand. Our Cuban link chains run from the 2.6 mm solid Miami Cuban to the 8.0 mm polished Miami Cuban, and our Figaro chains from the 3.00 mm solid Figaro to the 6.00 mm solid Figaro.
What are flat gold necklaces called?
A flat gold necklace is usually a herringbone, an omega or a snake chain. A herringbone is made of slanted links laid in rows, so it lies like a ribbon; an omega is built from smooth plates on a mesh and holds a rounded collar shape; a snake chain is made of close-fitted plates that read as one smooth line. All three show almost no individual links.
Which gold colors do chains come in?
Most chains come in yellow gold, and many in white gold too. Of the 54 chains in our range, 44 are offered in yellow gold, 17 in white gold, 2 in rose gold and 1 in two-tone gold, in 14K or 18K. In solid gold the color runs through the metal rather than sitting on the surface, so the choice is simply the one she wears most.
Width: What Each Millimetre Looks Like
Width is measured across the chain, in millimetres, and it changes the character of a chain more than any other number. Across the 45 chains we stock that state a width, the range runs from 1 mm to 13.8 mm. Four bands cover almost every choice.
| Width band | How it reads | Chains we stock in this band |
|---|---|---|
| Under 2 mm | Fine; a thread of gold, made for a small pendant or for layering | 1.00 mm adjustable franco, 1.4 mm box, 1.5 mm wheat, 1.50 mm cable |
| 2 to 4 mm | Everyday; visible on its own, light enough for most pendants | 2.40 mm cable, 2.6 mm solid Miami Cuban, 3.00 mm rope, 3.2 mm franco |
| 4 to 7 mm | A chain worn as the piece itself, alone or with a heavier pendant | 4.5 mm semi-solid Miami Cuban, 4.70 mm solid curb, 6.00 mm solid Figaro, 6.0 mm herringbone |
| 7 mm and over | A statement; the chain is the whole look | 8.0 mm polished Miami Cuban, 9.8 mm wide paperclip, 13.8 mm oval mariner |
Does a wider chain need a different clasp?
Often, yes. Across our range, the fine and everyday chains close with a lobster clasp, while the heavier Miami Cuban chains close with a box clasp, which sits flush with the links and spreads the weight across a wider fitting. The 13.8 mm oval mariner closes with a spring ring. Each chain's clasp is listed on its product page.
Length: Where a Chain Sits
Length is measured end to end, clasp included, in inches. Our chains come in 16, 18, 18.5, 20, 22, 24, 26, 30, 38 in, though each style comes in its own set of lengths, listed in the table above. Shorter lengths sit close to the base of the neck; each step of two inches lowers the chain toward the chest. The neck and the neckline decide where a given length falls, so the most reliable guide is a chain already owned: measure it flat and choose the same length or the next one either side. Our size chart sets out the lengths side by side.
Is a 16 or 18 inch chain better?
For most women, 18 inches is the safer choice: it sits just below the base of the neck, clears most collars, and gives a pendant room to hang. A 16 inch chain sits higher and closer, which suits an open neckline or a layered look. If you are choosing for someone else and cannot measure, 18 inches is the length most of our chains come in.
How do you measure chain length?
Lay a chain you already wear flat on a table, straighten it without stretching, and measure from the end of the clasp to the end of the last link with a ruler or a soft tape. That figure, in inches, is the chain's length. If you have no chain to measure, a piece of string placed around the neck where you want the chain to sit gives the same figure.
The Right Chain for a Pendant
A pendant needs a chain that it can slide onto and that will not twist under its weight. Smooth, even links do this best: cable, box, wheat, franco and rope chains all carry a pendant cleanly, which is why they are the classic pendant chains. A Figaro or a Cuban chain can carry one too, though a heavy pattern competes with a small pendant for attention.
What size chain is best for a pendant?
Match the chain's width to the pendant's size and the bail's opening. A small, light pendant suits a fine chain under 2 mm, such as the 1.4 mm box or the 1.5 mm wheat; a mid-size pendant suits an everyday chain of 2 to 4 mm; a large pendant suits a chain of 4 mm or more. Before you buy, check that the chain's clasp end fits through the pendant's bail.
Many of our pendants, including the gold cross necklaces and pendants, are sold ready for a chain she already wears, so a chain from this guide completes them.
Solid, Semi-Solid and Hollow
Two chains of the same type and width can weigh very different amounts, because of how the links are made. A solid chain has links made through; a semi-solid chain has links that are partly open inside, which makes it lighter for its width; a hollow chain has links formed around an empty center. Our range is solid and semi-solid chains, named as such on each listing, such as the semi-solid Miami Cuban and the solid Figaro. Weight is the plainest way to tell them apart. The listings show it: at the same 4.5 mm width and 18 inch length, our semi-solid Miami Cuban weighs about twice what the faceted Cuban does.
| Chain | Width | Length | Weight, from its listing |
|---|---|---|---|
| Faceted Cuban | 4.50 mm | 18 in | 5 g |
| Semi-solid Miami Cuban | 4.5 mm | 18 to 24 in | 10.5 to 13.3 g |
| Solid Figaro | 6.00 mm | 20, 22, 24 in | 21.9, 24.0, 26.2 g |
| Polished Miami Cuban | 8.0 mm | 22 in | 23.6 g |
| Oval mariner | 13.8 mm | 18.5 in | 31.4 g |
Our guide to hollow vs solid gold chains explains what the weight tells you.
Clasps
The clasp is the part of a chain that is handled every day, so it is worth checking before you buy. Across our range, the lobster clasp is the most common: a spring-loaded hook that closes firmly and opens with one finger. The heavier Miami Cuban chains close with a box clasp, a tongue that slides into a box set flush with the links. The oval mariner uses a spring ring, the serpent chain a tension clasp, the round link chain a push clasp, and two of our paperclip chains close with a front-facing carabiner that is meant to be seen.
Choosing a Chain for Him or for Her
A gold chain is one of the few jewelry gifts that needs no size, only a length, which makes it the safest choice for someone whose collection you know only in part. For her, a fine or everyday chain at 16 to 18 inches suits most necklines and can later carry a pendant of her choosing. For him, an everyday or wider chain at 20 to 24 inches is the usual range, from the 4.5 mm semi-solid Miami Cuban to the 8.0 mm polished Miami Cuban. Our guide to men's jewelry styling covers chains with bracelets and rings, and the Christmas gift guide sets out the order-by dates for December.
Should a chain match the metal she already wears?
Yes, in most cases. Look at the metal of the pieces she wears every day, especially a ring or a watch, and choose the chain in the same color of gold. A matching chain is worn with everything she owns from the first morning; a contrasting one becomes a choice she has to make each time she dresses, and gifts that ask for that choice are the ones left in the box.
Caring for a Gold Chain
A gold chain is cared for like any solid gold piece: kept dry when not worn, stored flat or hanging so the links do not knot, and cleaned gently. Our complete guide to cleaning and caring for gold jewelry sets out the method step by step, and our guide to professional jewelry maintenance explains when a chain should go to a jeweler. Every DEEVE piece carries a lifetime manufacturer's warranty, and repairs and length adjustments on our chains are handled by our in-house Ontario workshop; a chain that needs service is sent to us by UPS, never brought in person.
Quick Reference: Every Chain Guide
- Hollow vs solid gold chain: what the weight tells you
- Men's jewelry styling: chains, bracelets and rings
- Layering necklaces like an editorial stylist
- 14K vs 18K vs 24K gold for everyday jewelry
- How to tell if gold is real
- Jewelry size chart
Shop the full range in our gold chains collection, or go straight to the Cuban and Figaro chains.
0 comments